On 29 June 2004, Palermo woke to thousands of black-and-white stickers pasted overnight across shutters, lampposts and bus stops: a whole people who pays the pizzo is a people without dignity. The authors were seven young Palermitans who wanted to open a bar and discovered they could not do it without paying protection money. They founded Addiopizzo instead. Two decades on, that sticker campaign underwrites the Palermo No Mafia Tour, a form of civic guiding embedded in the city's economy rather than bolted onto it. The pizzo is not a metaphor. Before 2004, extortion demands reached the majority of commercial addresses in the historic centre, from market stalls to hotel lobbies. Addiopizzo's answer was administrative rather than heroic: a public register of businesses that declare they do not pay. A Palermo anti-mafia walking tour routes visitors through those addresses on purpose, so that a coffee, a cannolo and a bed for the night become part of the same argument. The organisation's travel arm has operated on that principle since 2009. Geography carries the argument. Groups gather at Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, beneath the 1897 dome of Teatro Massimo, where Francis Ford Coppola staged the closing scene of The Godfather Part III — the myth and the record standing a few metres apart. Routes run from there into Ballarò and the Vucciria, past the Palazzo di Giustizia, and along Via Notarbartolo, where a plane tree outside Giovanni Falcone's building still carries handwritten letters. Falcone was killed at Capaci on 23 May 1992. Paolo Borsellino died in Via D'Amelio fifty-seven days later. Palermo No Mafia Tour tours are built around these coordinates rather than around anecdote. Beyond the city, land confiscated from Cosa Nostra now grows wheat, olives and grapes for cooperatives working under the 1996 law that assigned seized assets to social use. In Corleone, an hour inland, the CIDMA archive keeps papers from the maxi-trial whose convictions the Court of Cassation upheld in January 1992 — the ruling that made the killings of that summer inevitable. Palermo No Mafia Tour tickets sold today support guides trained in that documentary record, and the wider Palermo antimafia route reads the city's landmarks as evidence rather than scenery. The reading is done aloud, in public, on streets where silence was once the only local currency.