In 2004, a group of Palermitan students papered the city overnight with stickers reading: "An entire people that pays pizzo is a people without dignity." The campaign became Addiopizzo, a register of merchants who publicly refuse extortion payments. Two decades later, that register underpins the walking routes that leave from Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, and the palermo mafia walking tour has become one of the few forms of tourism in Sicily built on a civic movement rather than a monument. The geography is small and dense. Cosa Nostra's post-war expansion left its marks in concrete: the Sacco di Palermo, the speculative building boom of the 1950s and 1960s that hollowed out Art Nouveau villas and filled the periphery with towers. The old quarters — the Kalsa, Ballarò, the Vucciria — kept their bomb damage from 1943 well into the 1980s while money went elsewhere. Guides on a tour antimafia Palermo point to façades and explain who owned the permits. The names anchor everything. Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, magistrates of the Maxi Trial that in 1987 convicted 342 defendants, were killed within fifty-seven days of each other in 1992 at Capaci and in Via D'Amelio. Father Pino Puglisi was shot outside his Brancaccio parish in 1993 on his fifty-sixth birthday. General Carlo Alberto Dalla Chiesa died in Via Isidoro Carini in 1982. Palermo's historic centre walking tour routes pass the Teatro Massimo, the Quattro Canti and the Fontana Pretoria, but the stops that matter are plainer: a plaque, a doorway, a shop window with a sticker in it. What distinguishes these palermo mafia walking tour tours from ordinary sightseeing is their present tense. The Maxi Trial bunker at Ucciardone still stands. The businesses on the Addiopizzo list still trade, and the guides drink coffee in them. Consorzio Libera Terra farms land confiscated under the 1996 law on the reuse of criminal assets, and its produce reaches the markets these routes cross. The city has learned to talk about this without folklore. There are no costumes and no film references sold at the door. The starting point outside the Teatro Massimo — where a famous scene was shot — is used by guides mainly to explain why that scene is the least accurate thing most visitors know about Sicily. A palermo mafia walking tour tour, done properly, is a lesson in municipal history told at street level, ending where it began, in a square named for an opera composer.